Tailoring is slashed on the revere or under the pockets, reworked as
panels to reveal vivid red lining on long and lean coats and suit
jackets. An abstracted Kabuki pattern is the dominant and recurring
motif featured throughout the collection. It is used all-over, as an
asymmetric placement or stripped back to just a single block of colour.
There is a play on the scale of three classic menswear fabrics -- the
Houndstooth, Birdseye and Prince of Wales check, used in combinations as
a new type of patchwork or woven as jacquards in the abstracted Kabuki
pattern. The construction of suiting has been pared back, either
completely free or half-lined and occasionally with a slight shoulder
pad to give just enough structure. Silhouettes are oversized or
elongated and trousers are cut wide and loose or drop crotched and
skinny. The use of trompe l'oeil gives the perception of layering --
waistcoats over coats and field jackets or black and white colour block
knee high socks to give the effect of leggings worn under shorts.
